The High-Stakes Hunt for Yarchagunbu: Dolpo's Lifeline and Struggle

For centuries, subsistence farming has been Dolpo’s lifeline. Since the early 2000s, the region has experienced a cultural shift, with livelihoods and travel becoming more dynamic as people search for better opportunities. Today, thousands of locals flock to the mountains in early May, leaving everything behind to search for Yarchagunbu, also known as Cordyceps sinensis.

Found at high altitudes in the Himalayas, typically between 3,000-5,000 meters, Yarchagunbu has a unique relationship with ghost moth caterpillars. According to scientific studies, the fungus infects and takes over the insect’s body. As it grows, the fungus eventually kills and mummifies the caterpillar. Over time, a slender, finger-like structure emerges from the dead caterpillar, and eventually on the surface of the ground, which is the fruiting body of the fungus. This unusual combination of the mummified caterpillar and the fungal fruiting body is known as Yarchagunbu.

The rarity of Yarchagunbu is attributed to its lengthy growth process, taking approximately one year, and the challenges associated with its harvesting. It is highly valued for its medicinal properties, making it a lucrative product in the market, particularly in China.

Passang Gurung, a local, recalls the first encounter: “There used to be rumors that strange traders buy unusual grass. When I first noticed it, I would carefully look for the grass people talked about while traveling over high passes.” This was in the early 2000s when Yarchagunbu harvesting began to gain popularity, becoming a main income source for Dolpo’s people. Passang adds, “Initially, people sold it for Rs. 5 per piece, but within a year, the price soared to Rs. 50. People were willing to risk their lives in the extreme cold of the mountains to fetch it.” For perspective, Rs. 50 was approximately equivalent to 0.68 USD based on the 2006 exchange rate data from Nepal Rastra Bank.

The harvest season lasts until the first half of July, depending on factors such as snowfall, temperature, and rainfall. It is dried and packed carefully until selling in August when the borders open to Tibet. On average, a family could earn around USD 1500-2000 in a season around that peak market of 2009-10. According to Karma from Karang village, "Around 2009, a single piece of Yarchagunbu can fetch around Rs. 1000-1800 depending on the quality and who you sell to in a market at the Nepal-Tibet border."

It has become the number one source of income to buy essentials such as flour, oil, butter, Tibetan tea, clothes, etc., for the whole year. A little remaining sum of money can be saved up for other purposes.

The market for Yarchagunbu has rapidly grown since 2008, reaching its peak between 2008 and 2014. A kilogram of Yarchagunbu can fetch around USD 20,000 in international markets, making it extremely lucrative. Despite a recent decline in its market price, the number of harvesters is unlikely to stop, indicating its continued source of income opportunity for families.

As the demand for Yarchagunbu grew, people began exploring difficult, previously unexplored routes, setting up camps in pasturelands, and crossing passes to find the fungus. Most of the region falls under the Shey-Phoksundo National Park, which requires permits with predetermined entry and exit dates. Thousands of harvesters, particularly from neighboring districts, come to the area, often clashing with the army tasked with safeguarding the region. Some of these bad actor groups usually come with month-long plans, entering warmer regions where Yarchagunbu grows faster before moving to Upper Dolpo as the snow melts. Along the way, they often target locals and monasteries.

Lax governance and excessive harvesting fueled by outsider forces have created a situation where locals live in constant fear of being robbed or, in the worst cases, killed. For instance, Pugmo, located at the entrance to the Gunas harvest region, has been particularly affected. Troops often form gangs, robbing rations such as rice, lentils, salt, and oil, and even emptying underground stores of potatoes meant for early summer use. Dechen (name changed) recalls, "Before heading to the winter camp, we would restock our ration at home to use as soon as we arrived in spring. But the time has changed. I remember back in 2013 when troops broke into our home and took all the rations we saved for summer. They even dug out our fields and found our potato and radish stocks."

The monasteries, local traders, and residents have increasingly become targets in recent years. In 2023, several gangs beat monks and robbed the Chhakhang monastery, located near the Shey monastery.

Climate change has also significantly impacted Yarchagunbu. Earlier snowmelt disrupts permafrost conditions, vital for fungal fruiting as it requires stable moisture levels throughout its year-long cycle. The availability of Yarchagunbu has declined significantly. In the early days, a harvester could collect over 100 pieces on the first day.

Unmanaged camping in pastureland littered with plastic waste, damaged grasslands, repeated digging, and increased deforestation for firewood have disturbed the natural ecology and biodiversity of the region.

Yarchagunbu has brought changes in the livelihood of Dolpo's people to a certain extent, but it has also posed significant challenges from environmental degradation to social conflicts. As climate change and excessive harvesting threaten this vital resource's existence, implementing sustainable harvesting practices, and strengthening local governance are crucial to preserve its future.

Congrats!! You made it to the end. I found a video documenting the process of harvesting Yarchagunbu. Thought you might like to see it. Here is the link.

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